Pull Fiberglass thingys off the PCB

When the PCBs get made at the factory, they have to add little “rails” to hold the boards in place while they install everything with robots! You can just pull these off!

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Connect Mothbeams to Mainboard

The Mothbeams are made to pop right onto the mainboard of the Mothbox! There’s some things you can adjust first though! image

Configure Mothbeams

Power

The mothbeams allow you to set how powerful they are with little switches. The more switches you turn on, the brighter they will be, but they will also run through your battery faster! The first two switches add 70mA for each switch. The second two switches add 150mA for each switch.

Remove the protective sticker over the switches. image

Switch your desired switches (I usually use a tool or bit of wire to flip the tiny switches). Note that sometimes (like in the image below) the factory installs the switch bank upside down. That’s not really a problem, just refer to the markings printed on the board (70ma or 150ma)

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Here’s my unscientific breakdown of the switch modes

  • 0 Switches (~10ma): Minimal Power
  • 1 Switch: Standard Bright
  • 2 Switches: Very Bright
  • 3 Switches: EXTRA BRIGHT
  • 4 SWITCHES: VERY VERY VERY BRIGHT AND HOT

I usually switch just the first switch (+70mA), and this is QUITE BRIGHT. You probably want to switch at least the first 70mA switch on, but I wouldn’t reccomend 3+ switches unless you really really need it to be exceptionally bright! (Or power and heat are not a problem for your setup).

UV and Visible

You can also decide which mothbeams to connect. The board can support up to 3. These can all be UV, all Visible, or a mixture. You can control each of the 3 Attractors individually too, so this can be used for experiments between different wavelengths of light! ** More mothbeams does mean it will use more power!**

Connect Mothbeams

Now that your Mothbeam is setup, you can just pop them on! Connect it to the top layer of the right angle pins sticking out (the bottom pins are just for spacing and aren’t connected to anything). image

Lock in with a Zip Nut

Now for each mothbeam, you will need two thin cable ties. image

Push one through the hole on the mothbeam and pull it all the way through.

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now add the second zip tie to the back that will lock it in place! This will keep it from going anywhere. image Trim the dangly ends off the ties, and repeat for the other mothbeams! image

Now all your Mothbeams should be connected! image

Connect Camera to Mainboard

Prepare Camera

The Arducam comes in a little box with one WHITE cable and one BROWN cable. image

The white cable is, unfortunately, usually the one attached, and it is for older computers. We will swap it for the brown one!

First, you can take the little plastic protector off the front of the camera: image image

Next, use the ends of a small screwdriver or tweezers to slide the camera cable lock. You just need to budge it a little bit. image The white cable should slide free easily now!

Now you will connect the brown cable. Make sure the black side of the end is facing the back of the camera like this:

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Slide the cable in firmly, and then use your tool to snugly lock down the camera connector lock. Sometimes you need to press one side and then the other. image

Give the cable a light tug to make sure it is securely connected.

Make sure to tuck the brown cable through the hole in the red board (as shown in the photos below).

Camera to Board

With its brown cable attached, position the camera on the front of the board so the cable lines up with the slot for it. image

Note how the holes line up:

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Position the glare blocker over the camera and again make sure all the holes line up.

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Now you will add some thin cable ties to two holes in the glare blocker.

The red thing on the camera has really small holes, so you want to use really skinny zip ties for this!

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Make them go through the mainboard, out the back, and back to the front of the mainboard. image image

Now get two more cable ties and secure the camera module down. image

Tighten it up, and trim the dangly bits.

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Connect the Pi

The Pi is a little computer that controls all the functions of the mothbox!

SD

First put your SD card (Flashed with the Mothbox software on it) into your Pi. image

Real Time Clock Battery (RTC)

The pi needs a tiny battery of its own to keep track of the passage of time even when it is fully off! Plug the battery cable into the tiny port labeled “bat” on the Pi.

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The batteries usually come with a little piece of double sided tape. Use that to stick it to the side of the ethernet port on the pi.

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Connect Camera

Lift the connect flap on CAM port 0 on the Pi image

I use a fingernail for this. image

The black side of the brown camera cable needs to face the side of the PI that the SD card is in. image

Slide the cable in, and firmly press down the camera cable closer to make a snug connection.

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You might want to give a VERY GENTLE tug on the cable to make sure it’s fully connected.

Connect Pi to Mainboard

We made our own fun connection to hold the raspberry pi. It’s a bit novel, but it pops in and holds it securely.

Line up your Pi pins with the socket like this:

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You will need to tilt the Pi at a slight angle as you first press it in. Then it will straighten out and slide right into its slot.

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Congratulate Yourself! You got most of your Mothbox’s electronics connected!